
Matthew Biancaniello is a mad, mad mixologist with a bent for foraged ingredients: wood sorrel, mugwort, wild mustard, stinging nettles, black sage, and white mulberries. One of his latest obsessions is candy cap mushrooms, which he’ll use to infuse sherry or bourbon. “I love to use the bourbon to make a Manhattan,” says Biancaniello. Or he’ll mix candy cap sherry with curry-infused elderflower liqueur, tangerines and lovage. What’s so special about candy caps? It’s actually quabalactone III. That’s the recently discovered compound that gives candy cap mushrooms their distinct maple or butterscotch aroma, the quality for which they’re coveted. After nearly three decades of research, Humboldt State University chemist William Wood last year identified quabalactone III in candy caps, only present when they’re dried (the result of an amino acid reaction). They’re almost always used dried, in the same way you might use saffron or vanilla pods. The name quabalactone is derived from the scientific name for the Mexican tree rosita de cacao, Quararibea funebris, whose flowers contain the same compound and were used by the Aztecs to flavor chocolate drinks. For Biancaniello’s quabalactone-fueled sherry, place an ounce of dried candy cap mushrooms and a bottle of fino or oloroso sherry in a covered container and let infuse for at least a week (two is better), then strain. Sipped straight, it’s a mycologist’s dream after-dinner drink.



